For me, having ardently studied sculpture, the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo is something of a Mecca. Although the juxtaposition of these classic works with the contemporary world was on my mind already, while visiting I was able to easily picture Charles Ray’s work in three oversized papal figures, dressed in their imposing robes. Twice life size they towered over their viewers. Amongst the many great works on display there is also a full head cast / death mask of Brunelleschi. This five hundred year old artefact had me immediately thinking of Bruce Nauman.
My museum ticket included a trip up the interior of Brunelleschi’s dome and also a step inside the cathedral’s baptistry. Walking around the interior galley of the cathedral dome is perhaps as close as one would like to get to fire and brimstone. There are a few naked figures contemplating their disemboweled innards up there. I could see the essence of The Chapman brothers in that frescoed depiction of hell. Back on terra firma, even the floor tiling of the baptistry had more than a hint of Bridget Riley about it.
Taking the train from Florence to Lucca I went to visit the curator Angel Moya Garcia at the Associazione Culturalle Dello Scompiglio. As an introduction to each of their publications their text states: “This private project presents indoor and outdoor visual and performing arts, with dialogue and interaction related to the earth, woods, animals and architecture of the estate in which Dello Scompiglio is located”.
Angel was keen to point out that, as a private, independent organisation, Dello Scompiglio has the opportunity to present projects freely. All creative decisions are ultimately made by the director Cecillia Bertoni. There are no committees pushing certain projects or agendas. There is no state funding. The need to justify the allocation of funds, to a board of directors or auditors does not apply here. As a Spanish national working in Italy for some years now, Angel’s experience was that it can take months or years to finally get clearance for publicly funded projects in Italy. Dello Scompiglio can make project confirmation quickly and can then use the months, or years, to fully plan a project unhindered by local, regional or national policy decisions.
The organisation presents contemporary dance, performance and visual arts projects alongside a committed educational programme. With addition income from the production and sale of olive oil and wine from within the grounds, a certain amount of independence is guaranteed. The food served in the restaurant is delicious, modestly priced and popular with local farmers and nearby industrial estate employees who frequent the place during weekday lunch times. Any profit made here goes directly back into the foundation. In addition to the restaurant, Della Scompiglio is comprised of a number of renovated buildings that house a theatre, conference room, two small gallery/exhibition spaces, a library/bookshop for in-house publications and educational research material as well as a vast underground gallery/installation space and residency accommodation for up to 20 people at a time. Projects are usually developed around a central theme. This past year it was gender issues, next year will explore the rituals surrounding death in various cultures around the globe.
