Dovedale is one of the most scenic places in Derbyshire. It is also one of the most popular tourist areas and has been since tourists first went there in the 18thC.
With this in mind we set off early and arrive, the second car in the car park. Before I get my boots on, other cars start streaming in. We decide to make a dash for the stepping stones. I need to photograph them and four other places without the tourists. I take my photos quickly and see that the hoards are coming … On one Sunday in August 1990 over 8,000 people were counted walking along these footpaths either side of the River Dove.
We walk the three miles down the wooded ravine past Ilam Rock and limestone caves to Thorpe Cloud. There’s plenty of wildlife here but also a couple of sad sights along the way. We see a mole on the footpath that appears to have drowned, the fur around it’s head has been wet. I’ve never seen a mole before. Then, what appears to be a bird flapping in mid air over the river. In fact it’s a bat, out in the daytime heat, entangled on a fishing line. We watch helplessly from across the fast flowing river as the bat fights desperately to bite itself free.
I can see why the 18thC artists came here to paint and why it’s still popular with artists today. There is inspiration at every turn and it seems like nothing has changed here. What I’m noticing generally when comparing the painting with the contemporary landscape is that all the rivers seem higher and there are far more trees than are in the paintings. This is not what I was expecting.
With the map out again, I was scouring the River Trent, Nottingham for a church with a spire. I find two, one in Sawley and the other in Attenborough. It looks impossible to photograph either church from the river without a telephoto lens, but at least both are near water. I head for Sawley Marina.
Yet again, it’s a hot and sunny day and I get plenty of decent photos. It’s only when I return home that the doubts begin to creep in …
I get a magnifying glass to look more closely at the painting of the church. It’s sketchy but I can see it has two arched windows. The Sawley church only has one rectangular one!
Dissapointed, I set off for Attenborough Nature Reserve where I know I can see the other church with a spire. This must be the one.
I find a good viewpoint from one of the stilted hides and can see an arched window. Great, now I just need some close-ups.
As I approach the church, I notice there is only one arched window. Has the artist painted two to make it look better or is this the wrong church too?
I check out two other aspects from the churchyard. All have one window. The last one is more difficult to see because it’s hidden by trees in the rectory garden. The Rectory has been built onto the side of the church at a later date but just above the roof I can see the partially hidden second arched window. Eureka!
My next location is listed as’Nr Markeaton’.
The painting shows a path or road curving into the distance. Two figures are walking away from the viewer towards a 5 bar gate.
Unsure of where to start I drive to Markeaton Park in Derby. After trudging around it twice I decide it’s the wrong place and consult my map again.
I find the Bonnie Prince Charlie footpath is nearby and it looks promising. Following it out of the park it leads me up a lane towards Markeaton.
I cross over the lane at the point of a hairpin bend to join the footpath again, when I notice it resembles the lay of the land in the picture.
Photographing here is difficult because the hedge is too tall. If I stand on the road it’s a blind bend, so not a good idea. In the end I compromise and photograph the footpath from across the road. It’s likely that this is the place and the 2 figures are either going to,or coming from Mackworth Church.
Thanks to these ancient footpaths the artists are enabling me to walk in their footsteps today.
Twyford in Derbyshire was not a place I’d heard of. When I got there I understood why. It’s a quiet place, just the church, Hall, a few cottages and a farm.
This made it very easy for me to find where my picture of the day was painted. I’m looking for a cottage adjacent to the river but when I look downstream I can only see Twyford Hall. I take the photograph and walk to the church. On the way I see the twin of the cottage in the picture but it’s too far inland and perpendicular to the river. Either a cottage once stood where the Hall is or artist George Robertson used his artistic licence to move it.
An interesting fact about Twyford is that it once had a chain ferry across the river. It was in use until 1963. I suddenly realise that my next location listed only as River Trent Derbyshire is on the other side of the river at Willington. George must have taken this ferry across.
It’s a long way round ending with a bone shaking ride down a very narrow lane. If a tractor comes the other way I’m in trouble. I arrive, more nettles to contend with and I’m on the opposite bank looking over at Twyford. I can hardly believe the scene in front of me, nothing has changed here. Everything is the same as it ever was, apart from the view of the disused cooling towers in the distance…
I’m at Derby Museum and Art Gallery to see The Enlightenment exhibition. My friend, artist Jane Pepper is showing her exquisite assemblages and prints amongst the natural history collection.
As I work my way around the exhibition opening drawers and discovering things, I’m surprised to come across landscape views on Derby porcelain. What a coincidence! I learn that it became fashionable to drink tea and coffee in the late 18thC and country houses made collections of the decorative china.
The yellow tea set in Lincoln came from Chatsworth House. It shows no evidence of being used. More likely it was displayed to show the owners had good taste in art and appreciated quality workmanship.
I have a picture with me of one of the plates which shows Derby Cathedral in the distance with a large area of grass and trees in the forground. Circling around the Cathedral on foot, I try to get as far as possible from it before it’s obscured by other buildings. I take my photograph which is nothing like the image on the plate.
A popular place with the Derby painters was an area called The Meadows. The meadows have gone. All that is left is a pub of that name surrounded by an industrial estate.
