(Kay)
We have been blessed with two days of extraordinarily good weather (for Shetland, that is. Between 13 and 15 degrees but when the sun shines WOW!) The colours of the landscape have to be seen to be believed. Such intense greens and blues I have rarely seen anywhere. The photographs do not lie (and no filters either!)
We headed south today and decided en route to be spontaneous. So we ended up going to a number of beaches. I collected specimens whenever something caught my eye.
First stop was Levenwick beach, a gorgeous arc of white sand, sparkling blue sea and a cute village of white crofts nestled around. Ahhh. We had lunch there, as was another party. Everyone fully dressed with jackets and boots… that is the irony (and saving grace) of Scottish beaches. Its coastline is littered with world class examples but it’s rarely warm enough to actually sunbathe/swim, but then if they were, they would be teeming.
Anyway then on to Spiggie Beach. Joseph sat down and recorded the waves lapping on to the perfect crescent of the shore and then went off experimenting with a handheld microphone while I enjoyed the sunshine. The photos say it all…
After that we popped round the cove to Scousburgh Sands, another huge stretch of gleaming white sand with stupendous views. Joseph disappeared off into the sand dunes to record the sound of grasses rustling. Not so easy to record birds against the background of the sea.
Finally the jewel in the crown: St Ninian’s Isle, Europe’s best example of a tombolo, a double sided beach attaching the island to the mainland. Words do not express how incredible this place is. Joseph sat in the middle of the beach and recorded the sound of the water lapping on to two shores simultaneously, left and right. His binaural microphones pick up the stereo sound as he hears it, so this was an opportunity he was excited about, as there aren’t many places where this happens! We walked across to the Isle and discovered the extraordinary rocky beauty of the far side, facing west to Foula, with all kinds of birds swooping around.
What a glorious day.
(Post by Kay)
Today the weather was incredible. Best day since arriving. So although we both have so much work to do in the booth (me photographing my botanical specimens with the microscope and Joseph editing the sound files, both of which have been building up in abundance over the last few days), at some point we had to get out and make the most of the day. So we went to do one of the walks on our list, to Sandness.
Sandness is in the north west part of the West Mainland, with a stunning coastal walk that winds along the top of very high, steep cliffs – again with wonderful green carpets of grass that come to an abrupt end with vertical drops down to the crashing waves below. There are spectacular views of Papa Stour to the north and one of Shetland’s high points – Sandness Hill -behind.
First we came to a series of ancient ruined water mills built into a gully with a stream trickling through and around each one, and Joseph sat inside and recorded the sounds.
Then we continued on to some immense dramatic cliffs, passing a flock of giant skuas – bonxies in Shetland dialect. Bonxies can be very aggressive during nesting season, which is in the spring. They nest on the ground, and it can be quite treacherous trying to cross such terrain in season, as they dive bomb any moving thing they see as a potential threat. Anyway they are impressive creatures with a huge wingspan and beautiful markings. We walked back across the fields scattered with ubiquitous sheep to the beginning of the walk. This was the least productive walk in terms of both sounds and botanical finds. But it was spectacular!
We worked late into the night to try to catch up with the editing/documenting/blog and sound-file posting.
(Kay)
Today we took the ferry to Yell. Yell is the second most northerly island in Britain, only beaten by Unst. We went to visit a friend who was a teacher in the school where I was commissioned to make the toadstool sculptures in 2010. Rachel and Rob moved from Derbyshire to Shetland 9 years ago with two small babies to start crofting. Well, Rachel has been working as a teacher ever since she arrived, but Rob completely renovated a croft and now works full time tending his sheep, cutting peat, training his (gorgeous) sheepdogs and myriad other things that keep him busy.
We had a lovely day with the family, being cosy in their rayburn-heated kitchen eating delicious home-made food and walking through the heather-covered countryside and along the coast to West Sandwick Beach, where the three females in the family have been braving the cold and swimming throughout the summer! And we think the water at Brighton beach is cold!
Today we went to the Walls show! It only happens once a year so we are very excited about having had the opportunity to go.
Joseph meandered around recording all the various sounds of animals, Shetland dialects, triumphant roars of the Viking Jarlsquad (whose true purpose becomes clear during the Up Helly Aa fire festival in winter) and general atmosphere, meanwhile I went a bit crazy photographing animals.
A menagerie of sounds and images…
After that we took the opportunity of doing another short walk from our list of westside walks as we were so close by. We went to Kinkwall, meadows filled with wildflowers and cows, where I gathered flower specimens.
The we went to Mid Walls, where we found an ancient abandoned croft
next to a burn and Joseph stretched out to record it burbling away.
We walked to the edge of the voe (Shetland word for fjord) to see Foula in the distance.
(posted by Kay)
Yesterday we went on our first walk. The destination was the south east part of the west mainland. We had several places marked on the map from our meeting with Howard the ranger, and endeavoured to cover as much ground as possible. So, the first destination was Scarvister. We followed a track down to the end and found ourselves at the most incredible beach: Reawick, with one croft house overlooking a stunning bay. Joseph sat himself down and recorded the sound of the waves gently lapping on to the shore while I meandered along the beach looking, listening and celebrating the peace and beauty.
Next stop was the main part of the walk: Silwick-Westerwick. We left the car at the end of the road at Silwick, and headed off to the sea’s edge. WOW doesn’t go anywhere near how incredible the views were, with cliffs, stacks, arches, bays and verdant green-topped precipices dropping vertically into foaming water. Joseph discovered that lying down is the best way to avoid wind interference whilst recording, so had a lovely time lying around while I went foraging for botanical samples. We crossed back overland and chatted with a sheep farmer who told us about the Walls show today, where he entered prize winning sheep last year. So we immediately decided the Walls show was a must! (Joseph anticipating recording great animal noises.)
Next stop was Burrastow, beyond Walls. Burrastow House Hotel turned out to be the only place to get a cup of coffee within a 20 mile radius….and a jump start! We returned to the car at 5pm on a Saturday in one of the most remote parts of the country to find the car wouldn’t start. But nay problem, the friendly neighbours happened to have jump leads and we made it back to Scalloway.
When we got home I started photographing some of my finds with the microscope. Very pleased with my new acquisition!
